Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to explore these tales and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.